The Sydney Morning Herald travel blog recently had a post about “travelling through the developing world as a single female”, where people were invited to share their travel stories and opinions on which countries were the worst for Western female travellers.
The starting point for the discussion was an email from a reader:
Jane wrote to me a few weeks ago to suggest this topic, saying she was shocked at the hard time she’d been given while travelling by herself through countries such as Morocco and Egypt. In Egypt she was on a Nile cruise, but still got hassled whenever she stepped off her boat full of English tourists.
“When I managed to escape the confines of my floating little Manchester and actually go into the port towns (Luxor, Aswan), the locals were terrifying,” Jane writes. “I’m not a stupid traveller, nor a disrespectful traveller. But I was spat at, called a white bitch and hassled by one guy who went into great detail about what he and his four mates would like to do to me.
“With this in mind, when I flew into Morocco last week I decided to keep to daylight hours as much as possible and stick to only touristy spots. Even so, on my penultimate day in Casablanca, while walking to Hassan II Mosque, a guy walked up next to me and shoved his exposed tackle against my thigh while trying to herd me down another street. This was about 11am on a main road.”
And here are some of the comments:
Interestingly, the place I had the most trouble was London.
I lived in North London for the better part of a year in an area that was predominantly Turkish. I was spat at on a couple of occasions, groped a couple more and had more leers and snide comments made at me in the months I was there than I’ve had in my entire life. There was also a memorable occasion where two boys of no older than 17 threw rocks at me while I was jogging (in trackpants and a baggy t-shirt, I might add).
Emma at April 10, 2007 8:23 PM
The worst place I’ve been for harassment is Casablanca in Morocco. Like the story from Jane, almost every man I passed spat on me or at me. I had lots of really scary occasions where men followed me around for hours. Even the male hostel manager attacked me in the ladies bathroom and broke into my dorm room to try the same thing.
Posted by: Jessie at April 10, 2007 8:23 PM
however having a man with you doesnt necessarily keep you out of trouble… i was in Morocco with a girl i had met earlier in my trip and she still was treated like dirt. We ended up cutting short our trip to morocco by a couple of days because she felt so uncomfortable. Its a shame though because it was such a nice place, sadly marred by the locals…
I can say Morocco would be great… if not for the Moroccans.
* Posted by: Rich at April 10, 2007 9:56 PM
However, despite always wearing loose-fitting clothing, covering up and wearing a fake wedding band, I still ended up being groped on a few occassions in India (once shockingly), being hassled by men to buy me in Egypt, and generally being stared at and touched by men throughout Asia. Unfortunately it is just one of those things that comes with travelling in those sort of countries.
Posted by: Laura at April 10, 2007 11:55 PM
I know of a couple who travelled Turkey together. It was fine when they were by the coast, but one day in a restaurant/bar they met an (supposed) government official who seemed very friendly and with whom they enjoyed dinner and a night out. At the end of the night, he offered to give them a present – a trip to the mountains so they could have a romantic picnic. it was an offer which they thought twice about but, as often happens when you’re travelling, sometimes a little risk can bring about a great adventure. So, they accepted his offer.
the next morning, a jeep picked them up and drove them to a beautiful spot in the mountains. They started to picnic and then heard a vehicle approach. It turned out to be filled with armed men. Next thing, the men were out of the jeep and held the guy at gun point while they took turns raping the woman. A disgusting tragedy and needless to say, the relationship did not survive the holiday. the guy is sort of broken and as for the woman, I can only imagine….
I myself travel solo and have had to defend myself physically on a few occasions (india and Egypt were worst) but generally I just ignore the more benign stuff. Of course I wish I didn’t have to deal with it – that I could just enjoy the journey but what can be done if that is the culture of the men in that country?
* Posted by: anouk at April 11, 2007 6:54 AM
I lived in Egypt for a year, and it was hard work. As a white woman, every day was an obstacle course of being hissed at, spat at, yelled at, ripped off and propositioned by Egyptian men.
posted by: ejcd at April 16, 2007 2:07 PM
i had a wonderful experience in alexandria, egypt. i was walking aone around the souk (far too deep into the souk really) when a bloke in a salwar kameez began vigourously masturbating (imagine the fabric going up and down). i was very tired and sarcastically said to him, in english, ‘not getting any mate’.
Posted by: monica at April 17, 2007 10:28 PM
As an explanation for this kind of behaviour a number of people wrote that the inhabitants of these countries think all Western women are “sluts”, “‘whores” and “prostitutes” because of what they see on Western TV shows. There was even the token clown who’s “lived in Australia for a long time” and wrote that Western women deserve this treatment (“but im telling you that the western women get all what they deserve in this regard”), just to prove to any unbelievers that there really are men out there who think this way. Hmm, he’s lived in Australia all these years and he still hold those views? Amazing. Well, this is multiculturalism and thats his culture. Plenty more like him.
Maybe those men did think of Western women as “sluts”. Or maybe some of them thought of Western women as Bible-readers. Maybe even Bible-spreaders. Or maybe they were just bored mysogynist cowards who saw an easy target and what they did reflects a general cultural attitude towards women. Because there was this little incident in Egypt, when women didn’t need to be either hijab-less nor foreign to be randomly sexually assaulted.
Maybe they did because their own religious leaders tought them hatred:
Al-Fawzan: “Someone who denies Allah, worships Christ, son of Mary, and claims that God is one third of a trinity – do you like these things he says and does? Don’t you hate the faith of such a polytheist who says God is one third of a trinity, or who worships Christ, son of Mary?
“Someone who permits and commits fornication – as is the case in Western countries, where fornication is permitted and not considered a problem – don’t you hate this? Whoever says ‘I don’t hate him’ is not a Muslim, my brother.”
[...]
“But if this person is an infidel – even if this person is my mother or father, God forbid, or my son or daughter – I must hate him, his heresy, and his defiance of Allah and His prophet. I must hate his abominable deeds. Moreover, this hatred must be positive hatred. It should make me feel compassion for him, and should make me guide and reform him.”
So maybe they were expressing their “positive hatred” and “compassion” through attempt to “guide and reform” the infidel harlots.
Maybe even Dr. Tawfik Hamid (who was once a member of Jemaah Islamiya_ has a point about a simple but shocking truth:
“North Americans are too squeamish about discussing the obvious sexual dynamic behind suicide bombings. If they understood contemporary Islamic society, they would understand the sheer sexual tension of Sunni Muslim men.
Maybe this explains some other things too, Dr Hamid continues:
Look at the figures for suicide bombings and see how few are from the Shiite world. Terrorism and violence yes, but not suicide. The overwhelming majority are from Sunnis. Now within the Shiite world there are what is known as temporary marriages, lasting anywhere from an hour to 95 years. It enables men to release their sexual frustrations.
“Islam condemns extra-marital sex as well as masturbation, which is also taught in the Christian tradition. But Islam also tells of unlimited sexual ecstasy in paradise with beautiful virgins for the martyr who gives his life for the faith. Don’t for a moment underestimate this blinding passion or its influence on those who accept fundamentalism.”
A pause. “I know. I was one who accepted it.”
This partial explanation is shocking more for its banality than its horror. Mass murder provoked partly by simple lust. But it cannot be denied that letters written by suicide bombers frequently dwell on waiting virgins and sexual gratification.
“The sexual aspect is, of course, just one part of this. But I can tell you what it is not about. Not about Israel, not about Iraq, not about Afghanistan. They are mere excuses. Algerian Muslim fundamentalists murdered 150,000 other Algerian Muslims, sometimes slitting the throats of children in front of their parents. Are you seriously telling me that this was because of Israel’s treatment of the Palestinians or American foreign policy?”
He’s exasperated now, visibly angry at what he sees as a willful Western foolishness. “Stop asking what you have done wrong. Stop it! They’re slaughtering you like sheep and you still look within. You criticize your history, your institutions, your churches. Why can’t you realize that it has nothing to do with what you have done but with what they want.”